Good evening folks.

Currently in Beziers after a very fun 48 hours. We had a very easy, just over 3 hour drive to Bordeaux, and were able to check in just after 1pm instead of the usual 4pm, so that was most helpful with the temperature in the early 30’s.

We’d booked a hotel about 15 minutes drive from the stadium for the Wales v Fiji game, and it was quite pretty. A little family run spa hotel called Les Criquets on the outskirts of Bordeaux. So we didn’t have to circumnavigate Bordeaux city centre like on a previous trip which is a blessing. Check in was easy and the owner absolutely lovely, so we just flaked out for a little while and watched the end of the Japan game in the air con.

Craig had a little nap so I decided to go and have a quick swim in the indoor pool and managed to have the place to myself which was delightful.

Then it was time to crack the facepaint out, and I did my best dragon stencilling to date. Snazaroo remains the king of face paints I have to say. Stayed put in 32 degree heat for about 7 hours like a champion. Also an honourable mention goes to Clinique’s “Take the Day Off” which also removed said face paint like a similar champion. I expect statements like this are exactly why I’ve yet to become anyone’s brand ambassador, and do you know what?, that’s OK.

Wales shirts on, we headed downstairs to the bar for a quick beer before heading out to get the tram to the stadium, the stop being about a 7 minute walk away.

Had a lovely chat with an Ireland fan who reminded me very much of Uncle Colm from Derry Girls, but was a twinkly eyed chap with a tale to tell. Plenty of Wales fans everywhere and a great atmosphere, we got beeped at and waved to on the way to the tram.

On the tram was a group of French fans also going to the game that gave us some helpful advice about what to do after the game. The Bordeaux tram system looks like a 2 pronged pitchfork. We needed to get from the tip of one of the forks to the other, which meant changing in the middle to then head back out if that makes sense. The tram was quiet on the first leg, but the minute we got off at the central station to change, there they were. A sea of red, all singing Land of My Fathers, Delilah and the Welsh National Anthem which to my shame I still don’t know, but I can Gwlad… Gwlad… with the best of them.

That tram journey was us all crammed in singing and a great deal of fun. Was like being in Cardiff on game day, just about 20 degrees warmer.

Once we got to the stadium we had just a short walk and there were plenty of food options, beer tents, bands, and entertainment. We had the delightful festival style outdoor urinals for the boys, although when I’ve encountered these before, the perimeter has always been screened off. Not so here, they were spaced just enough that you could meander through the middle without realising until it was too late. Eyes down for a full house ladies!

A group of Fijians were singing which was gorgeous, and I got interviewed for the telly by the Beeb, although I’ve no idea what for or if it was even shown. Foodwise, we had a savoury bubble waffle filled with goats cheese, cured meats, nuts and salad which was really good. Not your average Stadium fare, although that was there too. We decided to go to our seats quite early to make sure there was no issue getting in, as we heard some of the England fans struggled at the previous night’s game in Marseille. On our way around to our entrance block we saw the Fijian team arrive, and then 5 minutes or so later, the Wales team which was really cool, although we were kind of stalking the Gendarme with the super gorgeous Belgian Malinois who was being the goodest boy ever.

In we went. Really great organisation and friendly marshalls we thought, all going swimmingly. Then the French need for overcomplexity crept in. We wanted a bottle of water each as it was so hot, so we joined the requisite queue. You paid at one till, then joined the Alton Towers style queue that snaked off down the concourse to collect your order. Trouble is about a million people had ordered frites, and there wasn’t enough. So those of us with a simple order had to wait until the queue went down to get our items. Despite the water being directly behind the lady we had paid in a big old fridge. Sigh! But it’s a minimal gripe really.

First Stadium I’ve been to that had a million ladies toilets. A+ Stade Matmut Bordeaux!

The game was excellent, and to be fair we should’ve probably lost it. A couple of referee decisions that were touch and go, and an immense effort from Fiji. I’ve never been so happy to hear the whistle.

It was also odd to watch a Wales game that wasn’t in front of a home crowd that’s usually a good 90% Welsh. I reckon Wales fans numbered about 1/4 – 1/3 of the stadium, along with a smattering of Fiji fans, but the majority were French and they were firmly behind Fiji and I’m sure that aided their brilliant performance. Certainly Australia v Fiji will be super interesting.

Following the French fans we met on the trams advice, we started to walk to the tram stop that is at the centre of the fork, to try to get what would be the much quieter tram back to the hotel. Multiple trams with people pressed against the windows went past. We walked for maybe 25 minutes and some of the Wales fans ahead of us started to get a bit lairy I’m ashamed to say. We were all walking over a bridge that had a double cycle lane on it. France in its wisdom decided that they would give free bike hire and electric scooter hire to fans to help them access the stadium. Commendable on many levels, but in practise, a gazillion rugby fans in various stages of inebriation, some of them riding two up was a recipe for disaster. Weaving all over a narrow cycle path at speed, directly next to the tram tracks. We were having to keep our wits about us, and the lads walking in front of us started jumping into the path of the bikes “for the laugh”, without looking, one was actually a French lady with a toddler strapped on to the back. Then they started throwing the re-useable pint glasses most of us had, off the bridge into the river. Absolute douches. I apologise France for a very small minority of absolute pricks. Special mention to the tool that thought he’d try to startle the police horses. He was shouting and clapping while the beautiful horse just looked at him like “are you OK hon?”. Why are some people like that. Anyway….

We decided that, given the heat, and that we had another 30 minute walk that when a taxi with a green light presented itself, that we’d take it. We knew we were in for an absolute rinsing when the meter didn’t get switched on, and sure enough 50 euros later, and a schooling in how to drive like something from Grand Theft Auto, we arrived back at the hotel. Given all of a sudden we were exhausted and we’d drunk a 12 pack of water to ourselves that afternoon because of the heat, it felt like the right decision.

After sleeping like we’d been punched in the face, we had a leisurely breakfast and hit the road for Beziers about a 4 hour drive away, our first stop on the road to Nice for the next game at the weekend.

Our hotel in Beziers, is another little boutique “art” hotel that has as it turns out, the carpark of death. A small, cramped graffiti covered (legit art not vandalism) , above ground yet with a distinct multi storey car park vibe. Tight is not the word, and there were 2 spaces. One right at the end – that was a nope!, and one in the middle that was horrifically difficult to manoeuvre into because everything was just a fraction too small. Even once my husband managed to nail it (I’d still be there crying), you couldn’t fully raise the tailgate without hitting the ceiling. Not a fan! Given that we are trying to take care of our hired Qashqai Mirthmobile, it was almost as nail biting as that last 2 minutes of last night’s game. Almost….

The hotel is cute, lovely little pool, and the lobby smells amazing! Hotel In Situ Beziers – if you’re interested.

We decided to walk to the imposing cathedral, which is beautiful with stunning views over the Canal du Midi, and the surrounding valleys. Because France, there’s a hotel next door that was formerly a prison, and it has a life sized statue of the Alien queen from Alien in the courtyard. No one asked France, and yet you delivered.

Lots of lovely leafy squares fringed with restaurants and the hubs played a blinder by picking L’alchemie. I’m toying with a 5 star trip advisor review which is not something I give lightly.

Starter was Burrata with lemon zest, pistachios and a pipette of olive oil. I am totally stealing this and passing it off as my own invention.

Next, a truly excellent burger, served with little roasted thyme covered waxy potatoes with pink peppercorns, and a salad with a sort of confit onion dressing that I’m still thinking about what it was that was making it so great.

Dessert was Pain Perdu made with brioche, salted caramel, crumbled Speculoos biscuits, vanilla ice cream and Chantilly.

Everything was amazing. One of those meals you appreciate for the little things they didn’t need to do, but did anyway. The difference between not just good but great`!

So I’m writing this back at the hotel, full and tired and looking forward to tomorrow, where I may or may not see flamingos!

Next instalment tomorrow unless exhaustion sets in.

TTFN x V